Paklenica provides everything that a mountaineering soul might wish for. Nine splendid hiking trails lead through the canyons and to the peaks, all the way to Veliko Rujno, Sveto brdo and Vaganski vrh as the highest peak of Velebit, providing an irresistible challenge to mountaineers. Those who visit the area will certainly wish to return. The trails 150 kilometers long in total range from easy to difficult, with each requiring mountaineering equipment.
The canyon of Velika Paklenica is the most important climbing site in Croatia, but also far beyond national borders. The area includes some 400 climbing routes. Paklenica is a climber’s paradise, and the site of Anića kuk a permanent climbing challenge. This rock, the biggest on the mountain of Velebit with its height exceeding 300 meters, enjoys respect among climbers due to its diverse forms and overhangs. Climbers and mountaineers enjoy this area in the fullness of their adventurous spirit.
Manita peć is the only cave in the Park area that is open and prepared for visits. Its size and beauty have been thrilling the visitors ever since 1937, when the visits to the cave started following the completion of the path. Entrance to the cave is located at 570 meters above sea level, and it takes about an hour and a half to climb to it from the parking lot in Velika Paklenica.
The cave is rich in dripstones, which are quite diverse in terms of their shape and origin. The most frequent types of dripstones one comes across in Manita peć are stalagmites, stalactites, dripstone pillars (stalagnates) and dripstone cascades. Some of these adornments are named after their peculiar shapes, such as helmet, organ and witch.
The cave is also marked by its rich subterranean fauna. There are eight bat species recorded in the cave, and the research conducted so far has also resulted in the discovery of 52 invertebrate taxa, out of which 20 taxa are genuine cave animals adapted to the subterranean environment and generally incapable of surviving outside of caves. They are characterized by the lack of pigment and organs of sight (photoreceptors); however, their other senses (smell, taste, touch) are well developed. Many renowned European biospeleologists have been researching Manita peć and collecting the fauna in it. These endeavors resulted in the discovery of new species, such as false scorpion Chthonius radjai, isopod Bogidiella sketi, as well as spider Stalita praetneri that can still be encountered in Cerovačke špilje (Velebit Nature Park).
INSTRUCTIONS FOR VISITORS:
If you decide to visit the cave Manita peć, you will spend approx. 30 minutes in it accompanied by a guide, getting acquainted with many secrets of this intriguing subterranean world. The temperature in the cave is around 9°C throughout the year, which is why we recommend suitable clothes when visiting the cave in the warmer part of the year. The cave can be visited only in the presence of a guide.
OPENING HOURS OF THE CAVE
Regular opening times for visits to Manita peć:
April: Saturdays from 10:00 to 13:00
May, June, October: Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays from 10:00 to 13:00
July, August, September: every day from 10:00 to 13:00
Prior notice is required for visits outside of the scheduled opening hours!
The valley of Velika Paklenica is 14.5 kilometers long. Due to the impermeable lithological layer from the very source of the creek Velika Paklenica to the point where it meets the creek Brezimenjača, water is present in the bed of Velika Paklenica throughout the year.
Canyon characteristics are particularly prominent in the area from Anića kuk to Marasovići, three kilometers long – including the narrow width of several tens of meters, and considerable depth of up to 400 meters. Caved-in blocks of rock have partially closed the canyon, causing the formation of rapids and small cascades. This area has a remarkable geomorphological value, as well as the reputation of the most attractive Croatian climbing site, well known to climbers throughout Europe, but also beyond.
Note:
Velika Paklenica canyon can be visited throughout the year.
The main tourist trail passes through the canyon, and its length to the mountain lodge is approx. 6 kilometers. For the most part, the trail is not demanding, with the exception of a climb in the narrowest part of the canyon, which takes about 20 minutes.
As a rule, water can be found in the Mala Paklenica bed upstream from the branch of the trail leading to Njive Lekine, while the creek runs dry in its lower part. The left tributary of Mala Paklenica called Orljača is also a torrent flow that runs dry in the summer. In the wet part of the year, when water runs through the canyon, the trail is impassable.
Eight kilometers downstream from its source, Mala Paklenica creates a canyon approximately two kilometers long, marked by cliffs up to 300 meters high. In some areas, the canyon is only ten meters wide, or even less than that.
The erosion caused by what used to be abundant water flows in the past, running from the mountain peaks to the canyon, resulted in sediment brought by the waters and the creation of several larger cavities and caves in rocks, some with retained water.
Due to the importance of Mala Paklenica in the conservation of original petrophilic ornithofauna, climbing activities are strictly forbidden in this area
Note:
In its initial part, the canyon of Mala Paklenica can be visited throughout the year. The remainder of the canyon can be visited in dry periods, when the creek runs dry. (Note: the mountain trail is following the flow of the Mala Paklenica creek for the most part.)
Since this trail is one of the more demanding trails in the Park, a visitor choosing to pass it should be in good physical shape, and equipped with appropriate mountaineering equipment and sufficient quantity of drinking water.
Information on the state of the watercourse can be obtained from the Park management by phone +385 (0)23 369 155, +385 (0)23 369 202, or e-mail: np-paklenica@paklenica.hr.
Vaganski vrh (1757 meters) is the highest peak of the Velebit Mountain, and also the highest peak of Paklenica National Park. The peak is a flat ridge covered in grass, and the vista from the peak after rain can extend for 300 kilometers. It is easy to see Risnjak 150 kilometers away and Klek 110 kilometers away, as well as Troglav, the highest peak of the mountain of Dinara, which is 105 kilometers away.
The peak is accessible in the warmer part of the year; in the colder part of the year, it is covered in snow for considerable periods of time, which requires winter hiking equipment. The climb can also be rendered more difficult by gale-force bora wind.
Weather conditions in this part of the mountain of Velebit can change very rapidly at any time of year, so it is strongly recommended to check the local weather forecast prior to climb.
Sveto brdo (1751 meters) is yet another prominent peak of the massif of Velebit, dominant among the surrounding mountain peaks. It is also the second-highest peak of Velebit, providing a view of both the continental and the littoral side. There is a large metal cross and a plaque with the Ten Commandments on the peak itself. It takes five hours to reach Sveto brdo from the mountain lodge, or four hours from Mali Libinj.
Note:
The peak is accessible in the warmer part of the year; in the colder part of the year, it is covered in snow for considerable periods of time, which requires winter hiking equipment. The climb can also be rendered more difficult by gale-force bora wind.
Weather conditions in this part of the mountain of Velebit can change very rapidly at any time of year, so it is strongly recommended to monitor the local weather forecast prior to climb.
The peak of Liburnija (1709 meters) is one of the most beautiful viewpoints of Velebit, providing a magnificent vista of the entire archipelago of the central part of the Adriatic. The peak was named after the first mountaineering society in Zadar and Dalmatia, called Liburnija and established in 1899. It is also the highest peak of Zadarska County. The best starting point for the climb is the mountain lodge in Velika Paklenica (480 meters), with the marked trail leading all the way to the peak. However, the climb is rather steep, and it is recommended only for more experienced mountain climbers.
Note:
From its littoral side, the peak is hard to access, so it is recommended only for experienced mountain climbers.
Nowhere on Velebit is there a vertical rock as well-known and remarkable as Anića kuk. Regardless of whether you climb its base along the edge of the creek, or observe it from some other place in Anića luka, this rock dominates the entire area.
The very peak of Anića kuk, at 712 meters above sea level, provides a wonderful vista of Podvelebitski kanal – the sea channel along the mountain – and the area where the Velika Paklenica creek leaves the canyon. Towards the north, one can see the mountain pass Buljma and the peaks of Babin vrh, Vaganski vrh and Sveto brdo, as well as the nearby localities of Komić, Krivi kuk, Vlaški grad, Borovnik and Zoljin kuk. Anića kuk has been attracting numerous climbers for over 70 years, and it includes over 100 climbing routes.
Note:
The peak Anića kuk is also accessible by hiking trail throughout the year.
The trail is rather demanding, in particular its section that passes along the eastern side and leads all the way to the peak.
The hike from the canyon of Velika Paklenica to the peak of Anića kuk takes approximately an hour and a half.
The peak area of the Park includes the hydrologically important area of Babino jezero. It is the only permanent lake in the area of Paklenica National Park and on the southern side of Velebit. The lake is located at the bottom of a major doline, at around 1600 meters above sea level, with the hiking trail passing along it towards Vaganski vrh.
Water in the lake is retained throughout the year, but it is not potable. The water level oscillates negligibly over the year, and the lake is usually frozen during the winter period. The retention of water is probably caused by a clay layer that filled the cracks in limestone material, thus preventing water drainage.
In relatively recent history (until the beginning of the Homeland War), the lake was used as a watering place for livestock during the summer months, when people would bring livestock to the mountain for summer grazing. With the disappearance of transhumance livestock breeding in the area, the lake was gradually covered in silty material (pelite) resulting from the decay of algae.
Animal species in the lake include mountain newts (Ichthyosaura alpestris), known as water lizards or so-called žmurci among the local population. In winter, newts hibernate by burying themselves in silt among algae and other plants on the bottom while the water surface is frozen, thus protecting themselves from cold. Newts are carnivores, i.e. predators, feeding on water insects and their eggs and larvae.
DIMENSIONS OF THE LAKE:
Surface: 523.1 m²
Volume: 1307 m³
Maximum length: 32.9 m
Maximum width: 16 m
Maximum depth: 2.5 m
Note:
In the winter months, the lake is usually frozen and covered in snow, so visitors are advised to plan the visit to the lake during the warmer part of the year.
It takes about a 20-minute walk along the educational trail to reach the Paklarić fortress and belvedere at 121 meters above sea level. The belvedere provides a panorama view of the wider surroundings, and a telescope on site allows visitors to explore distant points of interest as well. The use of telescope is free of charge.
Note:
The belvedere and Paklarić fortress can be visited throughout the year.
Bojinac is one of the most beautiful rocky landscapes in Croatia, marked by an abundance of karst forms. The highest peak of Bojinac is Bojin kuk at 1110 meters above sea level, and the peak of Jagin kuk is particularly impressive in terms of appearance.
This site became part of Paklenica National Park in 1997, when the Park boundaries were enlarged. Visitors can reach Bojinac via a marked trail from Vaganac or Veliko Rujno, and take a loop tour along its picturesque peaks.
Note:
Bojinac is available to visitors throughout the year.
Crni vrh is located in the central part of the Park, at 1110 meters above sea level. The peak provides a wonderful view of the forests of Velika Paklenica and Mala Paklenica and the sites of Velika Močila and Mala Močila, Golić and the entire peak zone from Debelo brdo (Višerujno) to Sveto brdo.
Visitors can reach Crni vrh from the parking lot in three and a half hours of hiking, from the direction of Lugarnica through Donja draga to Mala Močila, or via Jurline and Grabove doline to Mala Močila, continuing along the marked trail to Crni vrh. A firefighting and meteorological station was built on Crni vrh in 2007, consisting of an iron pillar 11 meters high and a small stone house with solar panels on its roof.
Note:
Crni vrh is available to visitors throughout the year, except in harsh winters or strong bora wind conditions, when it is best to postpone the excursion until the weather conditions become more favorable.
The hamlet of Sklopina is located approximately 200 meters northeast of the hamlet of Ramići. The area above Sklopina consists of rocks known as Sige among the locals. According to the locals, the hamlet got its name due to its “enclosed” nature, as its Croatian name suggests – it is sheltered under the cliff of a semi-cave that protects it against rough weather. The hamlet of Sklopina consists of four houses that were once used for accommodation, or served as shelter for livestock.
Note:
The hamlet can be reached by a marked trail passing through the Velika Paklenica canyon to the mountain lodge. From that point, there is a marked trail leading to Sklopina (approx. two and a half hours of hiking from the reception desk at the entrance to Paklenica National Park). The locality is privately owned, and it is accessible throughout the year.
It shows a chronological succession of layers and rocks, starting from the oldest stratigraphic unit at the base of the pillar (dolomites from the Middle and Upper Permian 265 million years old), and ending with the most recent layers at the top of the pillar, the way they would look like without any subsequent tectonic or erosion changes over time.
Note:
The site can be visited throughout the year.
A future multipurpose visitor center of the National Park is being built in the so-called “Bunkers” – an underground tunnel complex built during the turbulent political situation that marked the relations between ex-Yugoslavia and the USSR in the period from 1950 until 1953.
The tunnel complex was built by the JNA, and its tunnels were supposed to serve as shelter for the then state and military leaders. During the construction of the complex, the entrance area of the National Park was closed to visitors, but also to the locals. The construction of the facility was done in utmost secrecy, and the works included a troop of 500 soldiers and prisoners. The facility was opened for the first time in June 1991, when the metal doors to the complex were removed.
As part of the future visitor center, a souvenir shop and toilet facilities were opened at the southern entrance to underground tunnels in 2007.
Note:
The visitor center is currently under construction, and its opening is planned for the 2016 season, when the bulk of the facility should be open to visitors, including the corridors, the main hall, souvenir shop, HGSS mountain rescue service area, and a coffee bar.
Ethno-house Marasović is home to the exhibition entitled “Mirila – Resting Places of the Souls”. Mirila are stone monuments scattered along the paths of Velebit, remains of a unique funeral ritual practiced by the locals back in the days when they lived on Velebit and found survival on the mountain (from the 17th to the 20th century). Today, mirila are part of the protected intangible cultural heritage of the Republic of Croatia.
The exhibition on mirila speaks of the customs and the way of life, creation and dying of one entire era, through a modern interpretation provided by scientists and artists (Siniša Reberski, Krešimir Rončević, Radivoj Simonović, Tomo Vinšćak, Mirjana Trošelj, Petar and Josip Strmečki, Josip Zanki).
The exhibition is organized by the Tourist Board of the Municipality of Starigrad and the Public Institution of the Paklenica National Park, in cooperation with the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery in Zagreb.
Note:
The exhibition is open every day from May to September; it is closed during the winter months.
The entrance to the exhibition is free of charge, and the exhibition is open daily from 13:00 to 21:00.
In the first half of the 19th century, thirteen water mills were built on the Velika Paklenica creek, in the area from the current entrance to the Paklenica National Park to the Paklenica Mountain Lodge. These mills are Donji Marasovića and Srednji Marasovića, Šikića mlin, Dadića mlin, Markov mlin, Katića mlin, Donji Ramića mlin, Parića mlin, Gornji Ramića mlin (with a still functional fulling mill alongside it), Donji Parića mlin, Gornji Parića mlin, Donji Kneževića mlin and Gornji Kneževića mlin.
These mills once supplied the locals of the area of Podgorje with flour, but also the population of Ravni kotari and islands of the Zadar archipelago, until as recently as the 1960s. Nowadays, these mills are no longer in use, although most of them are in solid state in terms of construction.
Aiming to preserve this specific form of traditional architectural heritage, the Park Management restored the Srednji Marasovića mill with expert assistance of conservationists in 2000.
Note:
The mill is open daily from 7:00 to 20:00 in the period from April to October.
In the remaining months, it is open on request by contacting the reception desk at the Velika Paklenica entrance.
Mala Paklenica entrance area also includes a small educational center for presenting the importance of birds of prey and owls in protected areas and in all habitats of Croatia. Birds of prey and owls are the most endangered bird species in Croatia today.
Their protection is still not sufficiently effective in Croatia’s protected areas, however. In addition, the declining numbers of certain nesting bird species in Croatia, such as griffon vulture, points to a careless attitude of man towards species and nature.
By tackling these issues and educating the visitors in small educational centers, such as the one in Mala Paklenica, the aim is to raise awareness and focus the attention of various visitor groups, in particular younger generations, children and students, on the importance of these endangered species and the necessity of their protection.
Note:
Mala Paklenica entrance is open daily from 6:00 to 14:00 in the period from May to October.
Educational panels on the importance of birds of prey and owls can be viewed throughout the year.
A guided tour of educational panels coupled with a lecture at the Paklenica National Park Presentation Center is also available at the price of 250 HRK. Prior notice is required.