National Park Northern Velebit

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Story of the Park

“One life is simply not enough to get to know Velebit” – that is how people who know the mountain best describe its amazing diversity. Velebit may not be the highest Croatian mountain, but it is certainly the most renowned. It represents a spine connecting the northern and southern part of Croatia. It is also a source of national pride, an area of tales about fairies and immense beauty. The cuts in the mountain landscape resemble the wrinkles on faces of people who once lived on the littoral and continental slopes of the mountain. Freedom is the key characteristic of the mountain, say the witnesses who refer to their visits to the mountain as “coming home”.

All around, there are big, seemingly bare blocks of rocks with numerous cracks, impenetrable forests, small and big karst valleys covered by grass, pits, dolines, snow-filled cracks, ponds and karrens. The area of Northern Velebit is a true mosaic created out of the most diverse habitats, constituting home to many plant, fungus and animal species, the abundance of which we have only begun discovering. It is precisely this diversity of karst forms, life and landscapes that led to the establishment of the Northern Velebit National Park. Back in 1930, Ivan Krajač, a renowned mountain climber who fell in love with Velebit, provided the following unmatched description: “As if in a majestic procession, the most dignified alpine majesties are assembled here for eternity as in no other area of the mountain of Velebit, with so many of them in one relatively small place, and at such high altitudes.”

Northern Velebit is not a completely untouched wilderness; it is also a space where people have left lasting traces. Man has left a special mark on the landscape of this part of the mountain. It was man who created and maintained grasslands and ponds, who built shepherd’s huts and dry stone walls. Today, we are reminded of that presence by overgrown traditional paths and ruins of old constructions. By creating new habitats – pastures, ponds and dry stone walls – man also enabled life for a number of plant and animal species that would have otherwise never appeared in the area, thus enriching the biodiversity of the National Park.

The entire area of the National Park is a spectacle of diversity. Forests, grasslands, rocks, talus cones, water habitats... the boundaries of these phenomena are not strict; instead, they merge into one another. Due to this diversity, Northern Velebit National Park, while small, is nevertheless an important part of the ecological network, as a conservation area important for as many as ten plant and animal species, and eight various types of habitats – grasslands, forests and rocks.

It may seem incredible at first sight, but the stone heads that constitute the peaks of Northern Velebit were created in the sea, just like the mountain in its entirety. The area of the Northern Velebit National Park is built out of sedimentary rocks that were created over long periods of geological history, in the ancient shallow sea that was between only several and a couple of tens of meters deep. This is where carbonate sludge, sands and particles of skeletons of sea organisms were sedimenting. The hardening of these sediments has eventually resulted in hundreds and even thousands of meters deep carbonate layers of the mountain of Velebit as we see it today.

Eighty percent of the National Park surface consists of forests. There are very few natural grasslands, and the existing ones have been created by human activity, for the purposes of livestock grazing. With the disappearance of human activities, the forest is gradually taking over the grasslands again, and many plant and animal species are disappearing irreversibly as a result of that process.

The wild side of Northern Velebit is represented by carnivores – bear, wolf and lynx. This area still provides them with the opportunity to survive, and many visitors will come across at least some traces of their presence.

However, the key character and values of the National Park are hidden from most visitors, underneath their legs. We are referring to a unique and special world of subterranean karst forms, with pits being the most extraordinary phenomenon – typical, predominantly vertical subterranean karst formations resulting from chemical and mechanical wear of the rocks in a tectonically fragmented terrain. The area of the Park, in particular the Strict Reserve Hajdučki i Rožanski kukovi, is one of the most interesting speleological localities in the world, given the considerable number of deep pits – over 400 of them. Three pits deeper than 1,000 meters have been discovered within the Park: the pit systems Lukina jama - Trojama (-1,431 meters), Slovačka jama (-1,320 meters) and Velebita (-1,026 meters). Unusual forms of life thrive in the pits, accustomed to permanent darkness, high moisture and constant temperature. Insects such as beetles, snails, milipedes, false scorpions, spiders, crustaceans, polychaetes, springtails, leeches and bivalves all live here. Some of them are endemic species of the northern Dinarides, and several species completely new to science have been described in recent years. The best-known subterranean species is the Velebit leech Croatobranchus mestrovi, endemic in the National Park, having been found only in four deep pits of the Strict Reserve Hajdučki i Rožanski kukovi. There are few people who have had the privilege to visit and investigate this subterranean fantasy world. The biggest values of the Park will forever remain invisible to most people.

Natural values of Northern Velebit are not yet fully discovered. In the past fifteen years or so, many species previously unknown in Croatia have been found in the Park, and several subterranean animal and fungus species completely new to science have been described as well.

Like any mountain, Northern Velebit is also best examined by walking. All the invested effort, sweat and an occasional blister caused by mountain shoes is soon forgotten by a tired visitor upon climbing to any of the peaks of Velebit.

What a wild beauty! This is possible only on Velebit, a mountain that brings together all the wonders of high mountains and the beauty of coastal areas, uniting mountain and sea air, amazing heights and unseen depths.

Dr. Gizele Tarczay; Planinski vestnik, 1926

The area of Zavižan certainly belongs to the best-known localities of Northern Velebit, with numerous peaks ranging from 1,600 to 1,676 meters above sea level: Veliki Zavižan as the highest peak of Northern Velebit, Zavižanski Pivčevac, Zavižanska kosa, Balinovac, Vučjak... Each of these peaks is also an impressive sightseeing point.

This is where a well-known meteorological station is located as well, recording all the calm and turbulent encounters of the continental and the Mediterranean climate. It is impossible to separate the story about the station from the story about its faithful chroniclers serving the station for decades. Members of the Vukušić family have been doing the work of meteorological observers on this location for three generations already. Ante Vukušić is a legendary caretaker of the mountain lodge on Zavižan located at 1,594 meters above sea level. He takes care of the meteorological station, and plays host to mountain climbers and visitors. Even though he sometimes cannot open the doors for ten days in a row on account of major snowfall in the area, and knows what it feels like not to see a living soul for full forty days, this inhabitant of Velebit likes to point out that he wouldn’t change his mountain home for any urban area.

On the second day, we climbed to the peak of Vučjak. I do not know whether there is a single place in our homeland that affords a more beautiful view of our sea. One could see the sea expanse of the Adriatic, bordered by purple-grey rocks and lit up by the morning sun, gradually disappearing into the distance towards the Italian side in a light haze. It seemed as if islands, islets and sea rocks swim in it. I immediately forgot all the efforts and botanical concepts...

Oto Oppitz, Hrvatski planinar, 1937

The botanical garden of Velebit is situated in between three peaks of Zavižan, in the immediate vicinity of the mountain lodge. Established in 1967, the botanical garden has been an indispensible point of interest for visitors of the Park for almost 50 years, and it is a place where one can observe and learn a lot about the rich diversity of Velebit plants.

Already as we speak, there are a number of best-known plants of Velebit growing in natural plant communities in the territory of the reserve. The introduction of new plants must not jeopardize the existing harmony achieved in the distribution of plants on the terrain of the garden.

All plants in the garden will have the appearance of a completely natural plant cover; however, every plant species will be marked by its botanical name on locations where living conditions for it are optimal. This will allow the visitor to easily see which community a plant belongs to, in which environment it grows, and which plants accompany it. The plan is to bring together the entire plant community of Velebit in the garden within a period of several years.

Fran Kušan, Senjski zbornik, 1970

As we look for the most beautiful locations on Velebit, one place we are certain to take note of is the karst valley of Veliki Lubenovac at the very border of the reserve Hajdučki i Rožanski kukovi. The remains of shepherd’s huts, dry stone walls and cisterns remind us of the days when people spent their summer months here taking care of livestock. This used to be a seasonal transhumance area in the summertime, but also a meeting point of the local population. A preserved livestock pond Lubenovačka ruja is one testimony to human presence on the locality of Lubenovac.

If you ever go to Velebit, do come to a valley such as this one. For this is where nature gives man plenty of time to recollect his thoughts. In human settlements, worldly concerns absorb one’s attention too much; here, on the other hand, you will find that lilies are dressed more divinely than the kings of this earth, and you will also find that the sun gives warmth to man, blue butterflies, lilies and the grass with equal tenderness.

Dr. Oto Oppitz, Hrvatski planinar, 1937

The well-known Premužić Trail runs through the peak area of the Park, connecting the areas of Zavižan and Alan, skillfully built with only mild inclinations. Built in a dry stone wall technique back in the 1930s, it passes through the area of Rožanski kukovi and opens the path to the most rugged and inaccessible parts of the Park. The names of some peaks stem from the tradition of the area – such is the case with the peaks of Gromovača, Čepuraš, Varnjača, Crikvena and Vratarski kuk. Some peaks, on the other hand, have been named after scientists and mountain climbers – Pasarićev kuk, Novotnijev kuk, Poljakov toranj, Krajačev kuk.

Inaccessible, unknown, solitary and indifferent, these peaks are proud and eternal intermediaries between the western sea and the eastern land, between the depths and the sun. They are friends of strong winds and the roar of thunder; they are at home in the wild rage of the elements and the life-giving power of the sun – standing immobile in their place for millions of years of eternal creation. Today, people try to find their way to them, referring to them as their homeland, climbing the mountain trails rising up their slopes. And when the moon spreads its silver light on the peaks, on occasion you will see a man sitting there, enjoying the harmony of open sea, universe and the earth.

Dr. I. Krajač, Hrvatski planinar, 1930

Walking along the Premužić Trail is like visiting an open gallery – it leads visitors with ease through diverse forests, grasslands and rocky areas, with several climbs towards the local peaks starting from the Trail. A favorite shelter of mountain climbers, Rossijeva koliba, is located there. It bears the name of one of the first explorers of Velebit, the botanist Ljudevit Rossi. For a visitor who cannot spare more than a day to visit Northern Velebit, the Premužić Trail and the area of Rožanski kukovi are the best choice to get a glimpse of the splendor of the Park in a short period of time.

I do believe that nobody shall complain of monotony... As we start from the shelter of Krajačeva kuća on Zavižan, the scenery changes constantly and substantially. First there is the wonderful panorama of Zavižan... and then you suddenly find yourself in a forest park and deep shade. All of a sudden, a rocky patch is there, bringing your attention back. A small clearing appears too, erasing unpleasant thoughts... Immediately thereafter, a lovely little forest, and then a mountain pass, and a stunning view of the firm pride of Velebit. After two or three stones, there is a gorgeous beech forest... One is still in awe, and already karrens and ravines are there, just like one would expect from a mountain as majestic as Velebit...

Ante Premužić, Hrvatski planinar, 1932

The area of Alan is located in the southern part of the Park. It is a place of mountain grasslands, dolines and cascades with mountain peaks above. The view from Alan towards the sea and the islands is bound to remain engraved in the memory of every visitor. The locality of Mirovo is close by, a place that used to be a major mountain settlement in the summer, and now includes only remains of houses, barns, dry stone walls and cisterns.

The Velebit road connecting the region of Lika and the sea over the mountain pass of Veliki Alan also represents a geographical boundary between the northern and the central part of Velebit.

And so the morning came, one of the most beautiful ones I have ever seen. We rushed to Alan, to cherish the majestic panorama. There is no hill in the Alps that can possibly give you such brilliant views. In front of us, there was the sea, in its divine tranquility of the summer morning, with islands all covered in gold. Rab, Lošinj, and all the other islands were there – a unique panorama that lifts one’s spirits and soul, and easily brings ecstasy. In front of such a view, nothing else matters, neither the past nor the future...

Dr. Gizele Tarczay, Planinski Vestnik, 1926

Throughout its history, Velebit has not been merely an empty space without vibrations of everyday human life. The mountain may seem stern at first sight, but a visit to the green valley of Štirovača on the very southern side of the Park may easily change one’s perception of the entire area. It has a source of potable water, and small creeks that bring water to meadows. This live water, together with rich forests, is what once attracted people to the mountain in the summer. In this area, right in the heart of the forest, a saw mill was built back in 1866, with its foundations still visible today. Once upon a time, there was a small store here as well, and workers’ quarters are still in use. Just like the previous inhabitants of Velebit were once attracted to this green part of Velebit crisscrossed by creeks, today the valley attracts visitors as one of their favorite destinations.

Of all the places I have visited in our karst so far, Štirovača is by far the most pleasant. And there are several reasons behind this conclusion of mine. It sits on a ridge of Velebit at 1,102 meters above sea level, surrounded by high peaks reaching all the way to 1,600 meters. Dense deciduous and coniferous forests serve as ornaments to all the limestone and dolomite rocks; thick grass grows in wide dolines, occasionally transformed into wider fields, with silky-haired herds grazing throughout the area. In the thick shade of fir and spruce, you can hear the murmur of clear spring water – a rare sight in these karst mountains.

Dr. Tućan, Planinarski vjesnik, 1919

Northern Velebit National Park has many faces, and it is impossible to get to know them all in one single visit. However, one visit is likely to ensure the second one, for it is easy to fall in love with this place. Its beauty can easily leave one speechless, for sometimes no words are suitable to describe the magnificence of nature. And yet, at the same time, a walk through the mountain will render the words unnecessary.

Natural heritage

The area of Northern Velebit is rich in diverse karst forms. It is a major source of habitat biodiversity, with around 1500 plant and fungus species. The conserved ecosystem serves as habitat to bear, lynx and golden eagle. This is an area where winter lasts for almost seven months – and the area of Zavižan on the mountain is the coldest area of Croatia.

The best-known endemic species of the karst – Velebit degenia – can also be seen in the botanical garden of the National Park. This area is highly valuable from a speleological perspective too given its abundance of pits, with some 400 pits discovered so far. A number of them can be found in the breccia of Velebit, the building blocks of the strict reserve of Rožanski kukovi and Hajdučki kukovi.

Plant world and fungi

Due to a unique geographical position of Velebit, various climates impact upon the mountain, which is also reflected in its vegetation. Littoral, continental and mountain vegetation can all be encountered on Velebit as a result. Among the plants of Northern Velebit, one frequently comes across species that once grew in this area during the ice ages, back in the times when a significant portion of the Earth was covered in ice. As the ice would begin melting, such plant species remained only on mountain peaks, with temperature becoming too high for their growth in other areas; it was only these highest elevations that provided climate conditions resembling those in polar areas, suitable for such vegetation.

Given such isolation, each plant group began developing independently, with unique species and subspecies, endemic in character, appearing as a result. Velebit is one of the four Croatian centers of endemism.

Over 950 plant species and subspecies have been recorded in the area of the Park so far. Many of them are regionally limited in terms of distribution, and there are also around 40 locally distributed strictly endemic species.

The Park, as part of the ecological network, represents an area of conservation important for three plant species (Kitaibeli's columbine, alpine sea holly and Arabis scopoliana) and seven various habitat types (carbonate rocks with vegetation of cracks, three types of forest habitats, and three types of grassland habitats).

Fungi are one of the least-researched groups of organisms in Croatia. They represent a very important part of the ecosystem, playing a major role in decomposition and return of nutrients back to the environment. In addition, many fungus species live in symbiosis with woody plants. On the one hand, the presence of fungus species enables plants to obtain water, mineral salts and other important substances; on the other, plants provide organic matter that fungi require for food.

As a result of several years of intensive and systematic research on fungus species conducted in the Park, approximately 420 such species have been discovered in the area. Many species have been recorded for the first time in Croatia. Some are rare throughout Europe; some fungus species are completely new to science. Many species are rare and endangered, since they depend on dead wood mass, which is scarce in managed forests. Given the fact that there is no felling of trees in the National Park, and that the forest is left to natural processes instead, it abounds with large remains of dead old trees, with a very large number of fungi appearing as a result, whereas these fungi are predominantly absent in managed forests.

Animal world

The fauna of Northern Velebit is unusually interesting and diverse. Various animal species live here in a relatively small area, and the Park also abounds in endemic species, characteristic for this particular area.

When it comes to invertebrates living in the Park, the data is still relatively scarce, with research on this topic still in its initial stages. So far, approximately sixty spider species, thirty beetle species and 150 butterfly and moth species have been recorded in the area of the Northern Velebit National Park.

Subterranean fauna is particularly interesting. Intensive biospeleological research on around twenty speleological sites resulted in the discovery of over 30 subterranean species belonging to various groups – sponges, snails, bivalves, Serpulidae, leeches, arachnids (spiders, mites, false scorpions), isopods, beetles, dipterans, milipedes… Many species are endemic, and several species new to science have been discovered in the area as well, such as the leech Croatobranchus mestrovi and certain snail and milipede species.

Only six amphibian species have been found in the Park, this low number being a result of the scarcity of water in the Park. There are also 16 reptile species, mostly strictly protected lizard and snake species; over one hundred bird species; and around 40 mammal species, including the Balkan snow vole as a relic species and an endemic karst species of the Dinarides.

When it comes to birds, there are around thirty nesting bird species from the Red Book of Threatened Birds of Croatia present in this area. In recent field research conducted in the territory of the National Park, substantial findings have been compiled regarding the threatened birds of prey from Annex I to the EU Birds Directive and from the Red Book of Threatened Birds of Croatia. These species are honey buzzard, short-toed snake-eagle, booted eagle and lesser kestrel.

It is important to point out that major conserved forest complexes constitute a favorable habitat for all the three large carnivore species in the country – bear, wolf and lynx, which means that the Park, as part of the ecological network, represents an important conservation area for these species. Their presence in one and the same area is a sign of a high degree of ecosystem conservation.

Geology and Speleology

Nacionalni park Sjeverni Velebit, čija je geološka građa temelj njegova bogatstva i raznolikosti, izrazito je krško područje karakterizirano velikom raščlanjenošću terena. Za stvaranje ovog veličanstvenog krškog reljefa presudne su bile karbonatne stijene, tektonska aktivnost i oborine obogaćene ugljičnim dioksidom koje su otapale karbonate.

Northern Velebit National Park, the geological character of which represents a foundation of its natural wealth and diversity of forms, is a markedly karst area characterized by a high degree of variance in the terrain. Carbonate rocks, tectonic activity and precipitation enriched by carbon dioxide that resulted in the dissolution of carbonates – these were some of the decisive factors that resulted in the creation of such a magnificent karst relief.

The oldest rocks in the Park, over 200 million years old and stemming from the age of Triassic, can be seen in the southern part of the Park, in the area of Štirovača, where the only permanent surface water source in the Park is located as well. In the Jurassic period, in a calm and shallow sea, the sedimentation of carbonate sludge and shells and skeletons of died organisms resulted in the creation of the bulk of carbonate rocks in the area, predominantly limestone.

However, geologically most interesting and most mysterious rocks were created in the Tertiary – the so-called Velebitske breče, or the breccia of Velebit. These rocks cover over one half of the National Park surface, and are a result of strong tectonic activities that caused more intense disintegration of Jurassic, Cretaceous and Eocene carbonate layers. It is worth mentioning the breccia of Velebit include almost all karst forms.

However, abundant karst forms have also developed below the surface, as a result of expansion of tectonic cracks and cavities due to corrosion and erosion effects of water.

The most numerous are pits – speleological phenomena with a pronounced vertical expansion of channels – with almost 400 pits discovered so far. Many of these pits are located precisely in the breccia of Velebit, including the area of the Strict Reserve of Hajdučki i Rožanski kukovi. So far, three pits deeper than 1,000 meters have been discovered and partially explored in the area – that includes the pit system Lukina jama – Trojama (1,431 meters deep, and one of the top-20 deepest pits in the world), Slovačka jama and the pit of Velebita (a world champion in terms of the length of the internal vertical section, at 513 meters).

The National Park is a constituent part of the ecological network, and represents an important conservation area for this type of habitat.

Climate

Velebit represents a natural border between the continental and the Mediterranean part of Croatia. Very harsh climate conditions in the area have had a major impact on the adaptation of a number of fungus, plant and animal species, as well as the way of life of people living in the area.

Below the peak of Vučjak located in the Northern Velebit National Park, there is the highest mountain meteorological station in Croatia, at 1,594 meters above sea level. Established on October 1, 1953, it has been in constant operation ever since, without even a day of interruption. Over the past half century, the tasks of meteorological observers have been performed by the members of the Vukušić family from the village of Gornje Klade on the littoral side of the mountain.

Many meteorological parameters and phenomena are measured and recorded on the Zavižan meteorological station – including temperature, air pressure and relative humidity, wind direction and speed, quantity and type of precipitation, hours of sunshine, etc.

Zavižan is the snowiest, foggiest and windiest meteorological station in Croatia, with the lowest temperature in the country. The highest measured temperature was +28 °C, and the lowest -29 °C.

In the area of Zavižan, snow falls on average from mid-October till the end of May; however, snowfall may occur in every month of the year.

In valleys and dolines, the snow is retained for longer periods. In snow-filled cracks, or so-called snow pits as they are referred to locally, snow can be found throughout the year. The highest volume of snow on the mountain is typically recorded in February and March, when its height is at around 130 centimeters. The highest snow cover ever recorded was 322 centimeters. Snowdrifts caused by the wind can get significantly higher than that, however.

One of the key climate characteristics of this area is the bora wind, blowing from the east. The highest recorded wind speed was 136.8 km/h. On average, strong or gale-force winds blow on Zavižan as many as 102 days per year.

Thunder is quite frequent in the warm part of the year as well: so frequent, in fact, that one of the highest peaks in the Park is named Gromovača, after the Croatian word for thunder, on account of the frequency of that phenomenon.

Numerous roads and paths point to the importance of this area since the Roman times, and many historical roads are still in use. Life of the inhabitants of Velebit was marked by seasonal migrations. People living on the littoral side of the mountain would leave for shepherds’ dwellings in the mountain during summer, which meant survival for livestock, and thus for people too.

Once numerous shepherds’ dwellings have mostly been reduced to remains, and only very few remain preserved. The migratory lifestyle of the population has disappeared.

History

Even though archaeological research in the area of Northern Velebit has been relatively rare and insufficient, it does confirm that there has been a continuity of settlement in the area of Velebit since ancient times. A more significant increase in the number of settlements, not only in the areas around the mountain, but also on the slopes of Velebit as well, can be noted during the Iron Age (in the 1st century B.C.). Fortified settlements were built on mountain slopes on the littoral side, close to the passages that led towards the peak areas of the mountain, and sometimes across the mountain to the continental side.

In the 1st century B.C., this area was subjected to the Roman rule, with the Roman cities of Senia (Senj), Lopsica (Sveti Juraj), Ortopla (probably Stinica) and Vegia (Karlobag) built on the locations of previous ancient settlements. The Romans also built roads leading over the mountain to their settlements in the continental region of Lika. Over time, this area turned into important crossroads, as the roads towards Italy, Dalmatia and the north all converged here.

The data regarding the period after the Roman Empire and following the settlement of the Croats are scarce; however, we do know that dukes of Kurjakovići, Frankapani and others governed the area of Velebit in medieval times, predominantly exploiting the forests that constituted a major resource of the area.

In the 15th and 16th century, with the incursions of the Turks, the mountain of Velebit turned into a place of conflict between the Ottoman Empire, Venice and Austria-Hungary, but also a refuge and a sanctuary. In those times, the base of the mountain was inhabited again, this time predominantly by refugees from the areas conquered by the Turks.

With the waning of the Turkish danger, in the 18th and 19th century, the Habsburg Empire built new roads over the mountain passes of Velebit; in addition, links between littoral settlements were developing as well. According to dr. sc. Boris Olujić, historian from the Department of History of the Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences in Zagreb, these new transport links had a particularly strong impact on the development of cities of Senj and Karlobag on the coast. Other settlements (Stinica, Sv. Juraj, Jablanac) never regained that intensity of life that they had enjoyed in the Roman and medieval periods of their history; however, all of these areas continued with that millennia-old lifestyle of living on the mountain, building and maintaining shepherd’s huts, mowing their meadows, grazing their livestock, cultivating every little piece of available arable land, and exchanging what they had with what they needed amongst each other.

Life

Inhabitants of the area of Podgorje, as people living on the base of Northern Velebit refer to the littoral side of the mountain, have always been drawn by and focused on that part of the mountain that they lived on in periods without snow. The narrow area of Podgorje itself was simply not sufficient to enable survival. As a result, the inhabitants would migrate to the pastures of Velebit in the summer, coming back to the base of the mountain in late autumn and the beginning of winter, bringing in supplies of hay and food as the first snow would fall.

As soon as the snow would begin melting next spring, they would come back into the embrace of that harsh, and yet also generous mountain. They would bring with them what modest yield they grew in the gardens of Podgorje, and manure in cloth sacks.

In the period of the Roman rule, coastal towns grew in importance on account of exploitation of the forests of Velebit, and the transport of wood into other parts of the province and the Empire. Forest management remained important during the Middle Ages too, which is when refugees from the areas subjected to Turkish rule migrated into this region, bringing with them their knowledge, tradition, beliefs and culture. All of that merged with the accumulated tradition of the past millennia and the tangible heritage palpably present on the slopes of Velebit. Naturally, one can assume that a certain part of the original population, no matter how small, remained in the area as direct bearers of tangible and intangible heritage.

Even after the conflict with the Turks ended, that way of life, thousands of years old, remained present in the area. One would still carry from the mountain everything that was collected during the late spring, summer and autumn. In the winter period, preparations for the return to the mountain would already begin. This migratory way of life, with people seasonally moving into the areas that currently represent the peak areas of the Park, remained present in some localities until as late as the mid-20th century. The remains of many shepherd’s huts, dry stone walls and cisterns, scattered throughout the Park area, are a testimony to this history.

As we reflect on this way of life from our own perspective, marked by urban pleasures and all the technology surrounding us, it may seem extraordinarily harsh and difficult to us. However, to the past inhabitants of the mountain of Velebit, it represented the only feasible way to survive. And these people were very much equipped for such an arduous task, given their strength, their knowledge, and their perseverance. On the mountain and at its base, they found almost everything that they needed. What they still lacked, they would obtain by exchanging the goods that they had. That is why we must perceive Velebit as a unique whole, and as a space that brings people together.

Written by: dr. sc. Boris Olujić, Department of History, Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences of the University of Zagreb

Author: Arhiva NP Sjeverni Velebit

Author: Tomislav Kolić

Author: Arhiva NP Sjeverni Velebit

Bicycling

Visitors can explore cycling trails riding their own bicycles. Six cycling trails with mixed gravel and asphalt surface can be combined. Passing through the settlements of Velebit characterized by traditional architecture, these trails take cyclists through extraordinary forest and mountain landscapes offering views of the sea and Velebitski kanal, the sea channel below the mountain.

Senj – Oltari

All three trails take cyclists along the western slope of Velebit facing the sea and offering views of the Kvarner Bay and the islands. The trails are local and forest marked roads that connect small picturesque mountain settlements interspersed with rocky grasslands, pine and beech forests, as well as impressive sea vistas. In their initial section (8 kilometers long), trails Senj – Oltari and Sv. Juraj – Oltari are marked by a relatively high gradient, so the climb requires significant effort. However, the climb gets milder later on with the switch to gravel surface, and the effort is awarded with wonderful views.

Viewpoint Crni vrh represents a must-see destination in this area, offering views of the entire Kvarner region, the islands and the coastline of Velebit. Trail Vratnik – Oltari begins at 700 meters above sea level, making it a less demanding trail compared to trails Senj – Oltari and Sv. Juraj – Oltari, but no less attractive.

Trail length: 19.4 km

Elevation difference: 903 m

Recommended time of year for visit: Spring, summer, autumn

Bicycle rental possibilities: Not available

Trail type: Asphalt 54%, gravel 46%

Note: This trail can be combined with trails Sv. Juraj – Oltari and Vratnik – Oltari, turning into a loop tour.

Sv. Juraj – Oltari

Trail length: 17 km

Elevation difference: 947 m

Recommended time of year for visit: Spring, summer, autumn

Bicycle rental possibilities: Not available

Trail type: Asphalt 62%, gravel 38%

Note: This trail can be combined with trails Senj – Oltari and Vratnik – Oltari, turning into a loop tour.

Vratnik – Oltari

Trail length: 14.8 km

Elevation difference: 256 m

Recommended time of year for visit: Spring, summer, autumn

Bicycle rental possibilities: Not available

Trail type: Asphalt 43%, gravel 57%

Note: This trail can be combined with trails Senj – Oltari and Sv. Juraj – Oltari, turning into a loop tour.

Oltari – Duliba – Krasno

Starting at Oltari, we first cycle along the LC 1933 local road through the forest all the way to Krasno. Half way along the route, we come across an intersection of trails, with the branch proceeding to the right leading towards the Northern Velebit National Park, and the branch proceeding straight continuing towards Krasno – a mountain settlement with 450 inhabitants, located in the very heart of the northern part of Velebit. This settlement is characterized by 13 hamlets located along the edge of the field.

Krasno has four cycling loop trails, marked by different colors on the map. Cyclists who decide to take these trails will get acquainted with the settlement, while enjoying panoramic views of this largest settlement of Velebit and the peaks that surround it. Information center of the National Park and the Forestry Museum are also available for visits.

Trail length: 10.8 km

Elevation difference: 207 m

Recommended time of year for visit: Spring, summer, autumn

Bicycle rental possibilities: Not available

Trail type: Asphalt 71%, gravel 29%

Note: There are four cycling loop trails in Krasno that can serve as continuation of this trail.

Oltari – Zavižan – Lom – Lubenovac – Alan

Starting at Oltari, the trail towards the Northern Velebit National Park proceeds along the asphalt road to the point where we reach the official Park entrance at Babić Siča. The trail then continues along gravel surface to Zavižan and Mali Lom, where it connects with the ŽC 5126 asphalt road. The trail then proceeds southwards and turns right in the form of a gravel trail after three kilometers, at Careva kuća mountain hut. This gravel section takes us across Lubenovac all the way to Alan.

The trail passes through wonderful areas where visitors can learn a lot about the unique characteristics of Velebit, enjoying unforgettable landscapes and abundant biodiversity, while admiring impressive peaks under which they cycle. There are also opportunities to relax on the terraces of mountain lodges Zavižan and Alan, watching a uniquely beautiful sunset.

Trail length: 44.5 km

Elevation difference: 207 m

Recommended time of year for visit: Spring, summer, autumn

Bicycle rental possibilities: Not available

Trail type: Asphalt 32%, gravel 68%

Alan – Mrkvište – Štirovača

Starting from the Alan mountain hut, the trail proceeds eastwards. For two kilometers, the route of this trail follows the route of Oltari – Alan trail, and then it continues straight towards Mrkvište, where we connect with the ŽC 5126 asphalt road and descend along hairpin bends to Štirovača for 3 kilometers. This trail offers a pleasant cycling experience along one of the oldest preserved roads of Velebit, built in 1860. The road originally served for the transport of logs from Štirovača to Jablanac.

The trail offers wonderful views of grassland plateaus of Mirovo, Tudorevo, Bilenski padež, Šegotski padež and Dundović padež, with the remains of shepherds' dwellings still visible. As we reach the final destination, we are welcomed by a completely different image of Velebit – the wide valley of Štirovača with its impressive coniferous forest and crystal-clear creeks winding through it. A sip of cold water from the spring of Štirovača will serve as deserved award for the effort.

Trail length: 11.9 km

Elevation difference: 227 m

Recommended time of year for visit: Spring, summer, autumn

Bicycle rental possibilities: Not available

Trail type: Asphalt 30%, gravel 70%

Velebit is a major attraction for hikers, with as many as fifteen hiking trails in the protected area. Without a doubt, the best known trail is the Premužić Trail, passing along the peak areas of northern and central parts of Velebit. With its 57 kilometers, it also represents a superb example of trail construction. Hikers usually pass it north to south, starting from Zavižan mountain lodge and ending at Oštarijska vrata.

Premužić Trail

If you have decided to take a walk along the Premužić Trail, depending on your fitness level and available transport, we recommend several tours. You can go for a full-day excursion by starting from the north (Zavižan) or south (Alan) towards the site of Rossijeva koliba, which takes approximately two or three hours of hiking respectively. You can return to the starting point along the same route. If you are in the mood for more hiking, you can descend towards Lubenovačka vrata via Fabin dolac.

The return to Zavižan is possible across Škrbina draga, and return to Alan is possible across Lubenovac and Tudorevo. The return hike will take more time – 4 to 5 hours. If you can organize transport by vehicle, we recommend that you go for a hike along the section of the Premužić Trail between two mountain lodges. That will take 5 to 6 hours.

Trail length: 14.8 km

Trail difficulty: Easy / medium difficulty

Elevation difference: 550 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodges PD Alan, PD Zavižan

Zavižan – tour of the peaks of Zavižan

A climb taking ten or so minutes takes us from Zavižan mountain lodge to the peak of Vučjak (1644 m.a.s.l.). Climb to Velika kosa (1622 m.a.s.l.) is very easy too, and if we take a somewhat steeper trail, we can descend from that locality to the Velebit Botanical Garden, walk through the Garden along the loop trail, and then return to the mountain lodge by taking either the road or the trail.

This hike takes slightly less than two hours. A more demanding and time-consuming alternative is to climb from Velika kosa to the peak of Balinovac 1602 meters above sea level (at one point, the climb requires holding onto a peg!), followed by the return from Balinovac down the scree terrain onto the loop trail leading to the Velebit Botanical Garden.

Trail length: 3 km

Trail difficulty: Medium difficulty

Elevation difference: 250 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Zavižan

Zavižan – Mali Rajinac – Rossijeva koliba – Zavižan

Hikers who wish to spend an entire day on a loop tour can start from Zavižan mountain lodge along the hiking trail leading to the highest peak of the northern part of Velebit – Mali Rajinac (1699 m.a.s.l.), located in the Velebit Nature Park. From there, after descending to the Zavižan – Veliki Lom road, hikers should continue across Škrbine drage and climb to the mountain shelter Rossijeva koliba. What follows from there is the well-known Premužić Trail, enjoyable in the beauty of its surrounding stone peaks. Hikers then return to Zavižan mountain lodge.

Trail length: 9 km

Trail difficulty: Difficult

Elevation difference: 360 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Zavižan

Zavižan – Veliki Zavižan

There are two ways for hikers to reach Veliki Zavižan, the highest peak of the Northern Velebit National Park (at 1676 m.a.s.l.). The first and easier ascent to the peak starts at the entrance to the Velebit Botanical Garden. The route takes us through alternating forest and meadow sections, turning into mountain pine thicket towards the end. The second route starts in the Velebit Botanical Garden. It is very steep, and it is better to use it for descent from the peak. The peak itself is rocky and barren, thus offering a stunning view.

Trail length: 2 km

Trail difficulty: Easy / medium difficulty

Elevation difference: 180 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Zavižan

Zavižan – Pivčevac

This hiking trail begins at the mountain lodge Zavižan and takes hikers to the peak of Veliki Pivčevac (1676 m.a.s.l.), named after pivac, the local name for grouse. The peak offers views of the entire Northern Velebit, the grasslands of Krasnarska jezera and the areas of Hajdučki kukovi, Rožanski kukovi and Mali Rajinac.

A steep trail descending from the peak leads to the Zavižan – Veliki Lom road that hikers can take in order to return to the mountain lodge. In the immediate vicinity of the intersection of hiking trail and the road, we come across a relatively small pit of Vukušić snižnica (1470 – 1450 m.a.s.l.), hidden between the rocks so that sunshine never reaches it. As a result, snow is retained in the pit during the summer months as well. The site is named after the family of Vukušić that used the pit as an important source of water and ice.

Trail length: 4 km

Trail difficulty: Medium difficulty

Elevation difference: 250 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Zavižan

Alan – Buljma

This hiking trail leads from the mountain hut Alan to Buljma along the mountain ridge, and the peak itself is located at 1451 meters above sea level. From the peak, hikers descend to the southern section of the Premužić Trail, and then they can take the road to return to the mountain hut. This short excursion without major climbs, offering pleasant views of the sea and the valley of Mirovo, takes approximately 1.5 hours of hiking.

Trail length: 0.5 km

Trail difficulty: Easy

Elevation difference: 150 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Alan

Alan – Alančić

The peak of Alančić (1612 m.a.s.l.) can be reached from the Alan mountain hut in about one hour of hiking northwards along the Premužić trail. This peak is covered in grassland, and it offers a magnificent view of a considerable part of the northern and central areas of Velebit and of the sea.

Trail length: ~2 km

Trail difficulty: Easy / medium difficulty

Elevation difference: 160 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Alan

Alan – Zečjak

The climb to the peak of Zečjak (1622 m.a.s.l.) takes approximately two hours of hiking in one direction. From the mountain hut Alan, the route first leads along the road towards Štirovača, and then along the Premužić Trail to the south. The climb to Zečak follows from there. Hikers can return from the peak along the same route, or they can proceed via Kita to the road at the Veliki Alan mountain pass. Zečjak is the second-highest peak of the central part of Velebit, with Šatorina as the highest peak.

Trail length: 9.6 km

Trail difficulty: Difficult

Elevation difference: 260 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Alan

Alan – Veliki Golić – Goljak

Hikers can reach the peak of Goljak (1605 m.a.s.l.) in the Velebit Nature Park by turning from the road that leads to Štirovača to the road leading towards Veliki Lubenovac. We then quickly reach the hiking trail that branches off towards Veliki Golić and Goljak. The peak of Goljak offers lovely views of Veliki Kozjak, Kita, Bilenski padež and other peaks in the wider surroundings. This loop trail is attractive due to the fact that it mostly passes along grassland areas, and it is not excessively demanding due to absence of difficult climbs.

Trail length: 4.5 km

Trail difficulty: Medium difficulty

Elevation difference: 300 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Alan

Alan – Veliki Lubenovac

The site of Veliki Lubenovac is a wonderful grassland area with the remains of shepherds' dwellings. It can be reached by departing from Alan along the Premužić Trail towards the north, and then turning right at the branch leading towards Krajačev kuk. We then begin descending along the hiking trail. We can return to Alan by taking the hiking trail, and then continuing along the gravel road that passes next to the grasslands of Tudorevo.

Hikers wishing to engage in a more demanding excursion can climb to Veliki Kozjak. This site can be reached by taking the hiking trail that leads from Veliki Lubenovac. This additional climb to one of the most beautiful peaks of this part of Velebit takes approximately two hours of hiking. The peak of Veliki Kozjak offers a magnificent view of Veliki Lubenovac, Goljak, Hajdučki kukovi and Rožanski kukovi, extending northwards all the way to Vučjak and the mountain lodge Zavižan.

Trail length: 5.2 km

Trail difficulty: Easy

Elevation difference: 140 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Alan

Oltari – Babić Siča – Zavižan

The trail begins on the road leading towards Zavižan. Starting from the Babić Siča entrance to the National Park, we can reach Zavižan along two educational trails. The trail Staza zviri (Wildlife Path) mostly leads through beech forest, taking 1.5 hours of hiking. The trail Trag čovika (In the Footsteps of Man) passes mostly along the littoral slope, taking 2 hours of hiking to get to Zavižan.

Trail length: 7.8 km

Trail difficulty: Medium difficulty

Elevation difference: 655 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Zavižan

Krasno – Jezera – Zavižan

The starting point of this climb is in the settlement of Krasno. The built trail leads roughly to the middle of the climb, and the route continues from there in the form of a hiking trail in good condition. The first part of the climb is rather hard, taking hikers along consecutive bends until they reach a mountain pass and arrive to the area of Jezera. From there, we continue hiking along a grassland plateau to the intersection of hiking trails.

This part of the trail is marked by small poles, so hikers can follow the route more easily, and the poles can also get very useful as orientation in winter climbs. When we reach the intersection of hiking trails, we need to follow the signposts for mountain lodge PD Zavižan. The trail continues further, passing around sinkholes and entering tall beech forest. We then reach the road leading to Zavižan, slightly before the parking lot, cross the road, and turn onto a built trail that takes us all the way to the mountain lodge.

Trail length: 7.8 km

Trail difficulty: Difficult

Elevation difference: 880 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Zavižan, Krasno

Jablanac – Alan

In the summertime, due to the heat, hikers are advised to take sufficient drinking water supplies and to depart as early in the morning as possible. From the mountain hut Miroslav Hirtz, we follow the markings as we hike uphill. After 4 kilometers, the trail passes across the Adriatic Highway approximately one kilometer south of the gas station above the settlement of Jablanac. We continue hiking through rocky terrain until we reach the asphalt road leading towards Alan. We proceed to the right for approximately one hundred meters, and then we turn left to the trail leading towards Turska vrata (Turkish Gate).

As we pass this site, we enter a somewhat more forested and flatter part of Donja Branjevina. After that, we mostly climb through the forest, crossing the road leading towards Alan on two occasions, until we reach the former industrial cableway, where we cross the road for the third time and come to the meadow of Alan, where we can already see the mountain hut. This route takes approximately 4 hours of hiking.

Trail length: 9 km

Trail difficulty: Difficult

Elevation difference: 1350 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Alan, Jablanac

Babić Siča – Šarin šarinac – Ciganište – Paljež – Modrić dolac – Plančica – Vukušić duliba – Vujinac – Struge – Oštrik – Alan

Marked longitudinal hiking trail taking hikers along the littoral side of Velebit branches from the entrance to the National Park at Babić Siča, halfway between Oltar and Zavižan. The trail is very picturesque, passing through abandoned hamlets of shepherds' dwellings that were used in summer by the locals in the past. The trail leads through groves and across the grasslands, with wonderful views of the sea and the islands.

This trail is an alternative to the Premužić Trail, but it is more demanding in terms of required time and fitness level. That is why it might be particularly interesting to more curious and experienced hikers who wish to explore less known and less used trails. The route is predominantly oriented southwards, and it passes along approximately two thirds of the mountain's height. The trail leads through terraces spreading in a longitudinal direction, and it cuts across two trails climbing up the mountain from the sea – first the trail that leads towards Zavižan, and then the trail leading towards Rossijeva koliba. Finally, this hiking trail ends as it reaches the road leading to Alan, two minutes of hiking away from the Alan mountain hut. The route takes ten hours of hiking.

Trail length: 18.2 km

Trail difficulty: Difficult

Elevation difference: 1060 m

Recommended time of year for visit: Summer

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Alan

Note: This demanding trail is suitable only for experienced hikers, and only in summer months.

Gornja Klada – Zavižan

The route of this trail begins at Gornja Klada, next to the chapel, leading to the end of the asphalt road, where the markings direct us to a well-adapted and well-built hiking trail. In a constant climb, we pass below the peaks of Biondinovača and Dujkovača. Continuing further along the winding trail, we reach Babrovača and summer dwellings of the Vukušić family. The trail ascends from Babrovača to Ciganište. After that, section of the educational trail Trag čovika (In the Footsteps of Man) takes us further to Zavižan. The climb takes approximately 4 hours.

Trail length: 8 km

Trail difficulty: Medium difficulty

Elevation difference: 1300 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes, layered clothes

Availability of drinking water: Available: mountain lodge PD Zavižan, Gornja Klada

Velebit can be explored by walking in the footsteps of man, wildlife and shepherds, or even by facing the temper of Zavižan weather... Eight educational trails are available, and visitors will not make a mistake whichever trail they choose. The only thing that remains to be done is to plan when to come to Velebit again, in order to explore even more routes, enjoy diverse flora and fauna, and discover the remains of a unique way of life visible in traditional architecture. It is impossible not to be impressed by the immense peaks and valleys of the mountain.

Staza zviri (Wildlife Path)

This is the shortest path to reach Zavižan on foot, and it takes approximately 1.5 hours of hiking. This trail teaches visitors about various interesting animal species of Northern Velebit. It is possible to come across traces of some of these species, or even to see them during the walk.

Trail length: 3.6 km

Duration: 1.5 hours

Elevation difference: 311 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: Individual and group visits

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Trail type: Hiking trail

Number of interpretation panels: 6

Trag čovika (In the Footsteps of Man)

The trail leads along the sea-facing side of Velebit, and follows the old shepherd paths. It takes approximately three hours of hiking. As visitors walk along the trail, they can learn about the harsh traditional way of life of people who lived in this area for centuries.

Trail length: 5.3 km

Duration: 3 hours

Elevation difference: 311 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: Individual and group visits

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Trail type: Hiking trail

Number of interpretation panels: 8

Vremenske ćudi Zavižana (The Temper of Zavižan Weather)

This educational trail dedicated to meteorology was designed in the autumn of 2011, in cooperation with the National Hydrological and Meteorological Service. The trail links the parking lot below Vučjak with the mountain lodge and weather station of Zavižan, continuing further to the very peak of Vučjak.

Trail length: 0.5 km

Duration: 20 minutes

Elevation difference: ~100 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: Individual and group visits

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Trail type: Hiking trail

Number of interpretation panels: 17

Velebit Botanical Garden

On the occasion of 40 years since the establishment of the Velebit Botanical Garden, fifteen information panels have been placed in the Garden, offering visitors an even better insight into the plant life of Northern Velebit and its diversity, including many endemic species and other rare and protected species. Visitors can thus see all the effort, enthusiasm and love invested by numerous scientists, experts, workers and gardeners who cared for the Garden.

Trail length: 0.8 km

Duration: 30 minutes

Elevation difference: ~20 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: Individual and group visits

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Trail type: Hiking trail

Number of interpretation panels: 15

Štirovača

This trail is dedicated to the only water-rich area in the Northern Velebit National Park, describing its geological characteristics and biodiversity, as well as history of forestry and forest management in the area.

Trail length: 1 km

Duration: 40 minutes

Elevation difference: 0 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: Individual and group visits

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Trail type: Hiking trail, gravel

Number of interpretation panels: 11

Put pastira (Shepherd Trail)

This trail acquaints visitors with the biological and landscape values of the grasslands of Lubenovac and the strict reserve of Hajdučki kukovi and Rožanski kukovi. Grasslands are a threatened habitat, disappearing due to natural vegetation succession on the slopes of Velebit as a result of abandonment of livestock breeding.

Trail length: 1,5 km

Duration: 50 minutes

Elevation difference: 50 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: Individual and group visits

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Trail type: Forest path, hiking trail

Number of interpretation panels: 6

Premužić Trail

The section of the Premužić Trail located in the Northern Velebit National Park is equipped with 26 educational panels creating a mosaic of information consisting of geology, speleology, plant and animal world, and cultural heritage of the area.

Trail length: 14.8 km

Duration: 6 hours

Elevation difference: 550 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: Individual and group visits

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Trail type: Hiking trail

Number of interpretation panels: 26

Park Management

Visitors get acquainted with the localities and attractions of the Northern Velebit National Park, coupled with photographs and quotations of numerous Velebit enthusiasts.

Trail length: 0.1 km

Duration: 15 minutes

Elevation difference: 0 m

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: Individual and group visits

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Accessible

Trail type: Area around the Park Administration building

Number of interpretation panels: 12

In a small green workshop, elementary school children learn about the basics of meteorology, botany and natural science. The school adapts to weather conditions. Although the school in nature program takes five hours, it is not tiresome for children; instead, the beauty of having a classroom in nature reinvigorates the participants.

Little Green Workshop

Educational program Little Green Workshop has been prepared for elementary school children. It includes the following available programs: Little Meteorologist; Little Botanist and Little Natural Scientist.

Target age group: Lower grades of elementary school

Duration: Up to 5 hours

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: Group visits

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Three guided tours cover diverse aspects of the National Park, based on the interests of visitors. Those interested in meteorology will head to the area of Zavižan. Tour of the Premužić Trail is also on offer, as well as a tour program designed for visitors who wish to get acquainted with the wilderness of Velebit and its carnivore species. In order to ensure a pleasant and safe experience of guided tours, visitors will need hiking shoes, suitable clothes and sufficient drinking water.

Half-day tour

Visit to the Zavižan meteorological station and the Botanical Garden, coupled with a climb to one of the mountain peaks of the Zavižan area.

Duration: Up to 4 hours

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: The tour is suitable for groups, but it can also be arranged for individual visits.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes; layered clothes; sun protection; sufficient water

Note: The tour route is adjusted to the wishes of the group.

Full-day tour

Visit to the Premužić Trail and the Botanical Garden.

Duration: Up to 8 hours

Recommended time of year for visit: The usual visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November, depending on weather conditions.

Suitable for individual / group visits: The tour is suitable for groups, but it can also be arranged for individual visits.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes; layered clothes; sun protection; sufficient water

Note: The tour route is adjusted to the wishes of the group.

Wildlife watch

Tour of most of the Park, with a focus on wildlife.

Duration: Up to 8 hours

Suitable for individual / group visits: The tour is suitable for small groups, but it can also be arranged for individual visits.

Accessible to persons with disabilities: Not accessible

Recommended equipment: Hiking shoes; layered clothes; sun protection; sufficient water

Most accommodation capacities are located in mountain huts. Visitors should check the opening times prior to visit, as well as available accommodation capacity and catering options. Good preparation is a guarantee of pleasant stay, and nature enthusiasts will certainly enjoy direct contact with nature and the mountain.

Mountain lodge - Zavižan

Zavižan mountain lodge is a two-storey building built on the foundations of the previous facility called Krajačeva kuća. The lodge offers essential catering services, and visitors can also prepare their own food.

The ground floor includes the kitchen, one joint dormitory with 14 beds, and dining room that can seat 40 persons. On the first floor, there is one double bedroom, one room with four beds, and one dormitory with 8 beds. Rooms and dormitories are equipped with bunk beds and linen, so having one's own sleeping bag is not necessary. The lodge has electricity supply and a phone line. The facility has a water reservoir with limited capacity, and visitors are urged to save water. During the peak season, visitors are advised to make accommodation reservations in advance. In front of the lodge, there is a terrace that can seat approximately 50 persons.

Important information:

Open: permanently
Water: rainwater reservoir
Number of beds: 28
Dining area seats: 40
Services: food by arrangement; drinks
Shower: available
Electricity: available

Contact:

Phone:

00385(0)53 614 209
00385(0)53 614 203

Mountain hut - Alan

This mountain hut is a two-storey log house. The upper level has five rooms with 40 beds. The ground floor includes an equipped kitchen where visitors can prepare and consume food and drinks. Behind the house, there is a water reservoir, and the kitchen has water supply during the summer season. Visitors are urged to be very careful when using water, and to save it as much as possible.

Water for hygienic purposes is provided next to the mountain hut. There is no electric lighting. Visitors are advised to bring their own sleeping bags. For those visitors who do not have sleeping bags, there is sufficient quantity of blankets that are also needed in the summer. Mountain hut Alan is managed by the Commercial Section of the Hiking and Orientation Club Sljeme from Zagreb. Continuous caretaking is organized at the lodge from mid-June until the end of October, and caretakers on duty are available on weekends in the remaining part of year. In the period when no caretakers on duty are present, this facility is open to hikers as mountain shelter with the most essential equipment. Mountain hut Alan has various beverages on offer, and simple dishes are prepared by arrangement and based on available resources.

Important information:

Open: permanently from the end of May until the end of October; outside of the main season usually open on Sundays
Water: rainwater reservoir
Number of beds: 40
Dining area seats: 30
Services: simple meals, drinks
Shower: not available
Electricity: not available

Contact:

Cell:

00385(0)99 5154 999

E-mail:

Web:

www.plsavez.hr

Mountain shelter - Rossijeva koliba

Mountain shelter Rossijeva koliba was built in 1929. It is located next to the Premužić Trail, approximately two hours of hiking away from Zavižan.

The shelter is intended only for short stays in case of necessity or bad weather.

Mountain hut - Apatišan

Facility is located at 1112 meters above sea level.

Important information:

Number of beds: 12
Facility open: by arrangement
Facility supplies: partially supplied

Contact:

Contact person:
Josip Tomaić

Phone:

00385(0)53 851 145

Cell:

00385(0)98 9070 495

Facility managed by:
HPD Rajinac, Krasno

Note:

Located in the vicinity of the Northern Velebit National Park.

Mountain hut - Careva kuća

Facility is located at 1180 meters above sea level.

Important information:

Number of beds: 26
Facility open: by arrangement
Facility supplies: no supplies

Contact:

Contact person:
Ante Plavčić

Phone:

00385(0)53 772 298

Cell:

00385(0)98 975 7564

Facility managed by:
HHPD Gromovača, Otočac

Note:

Located in the vicinity of the Northern Velebit National Park.

Mountain hut - Mrkvište

Facility is located at 1276 meters above sea level.

Important information:

Number of beds: 45
Facility open: by arrangement
Facility supplies: no supplies

Contact:

Contact person:
Neda Turina

Cell:

00385(0)98 755 200

Facility managed by:
HPD Zavižan, Senj

Note:

Located in the vicinity of the Northern Velebit National Park.

Mountain hut - Kugina kuća

Facility is located at 1180 meters above sea level.

Important information:

Number of beds: 30
Facility open: by arrangement
Facility supplies: partially supplied

Contact:

Contact person:
Tomislav Čanić

Cell:

00385(0)91 563 2075

Facility managed by:
HPD Željezničar, Gospić

Note:

Located in the vicinity of the Northern Velebit National Park.

Mountain hut - Oltari

Facility is located at 940 meters above sea level.

Important information:

Number of beds: 30
Facility open: by arrangement
Facility supplies: no supplies

Contact:

Contact person:
Ljubica Matijašević

Mob.:

00385(0)91 563 2075

Facility managed by:
HPD Sisak, Sisak

Note:

Located in the vicinity of the Northern Velebit National Park.

Zavižan is one of the best known localities in the Northern Velebit National Park. At 1594 meters above sea level, below the peak of Vučjak, we come across the Zavižan mountain lodge and the oldest high-altitude meteorological station in Croatia, established in 1953. Given the fact that Velebit represents a natural boundary between the continental and the Mediterranean part of Croatia, two opposing climates meet in the peak area of the mountain – the maritime and the continental climate. This phenomenon causes unpredictable weather conditions, which makes the Zavižan station immensely important for the meteorological community.

Zavižan mountain lodge was built on the foundations of the previous facility called Krajačeva kuća, built in 1927. During World War II, Krajačeva kuća collapsed, and the Croatian Mountaineering Association began constructing a new mountain lodge in 1951, with the help of mountaineers from the town of Senj. The new lodge was opened on July 27, 1953.

Members of the Vukušić family have been doing the work of meteorological observers at the Zavižan station for three generations already. They also take care of the mountain lodge.

On the way towards the mountain lodge, near the chapel of St. Anthony, visitors can get acquainted with the geology and structure of Velebit shown on a geological block with information panels.

Thanks to easy access to Zavižan, coupled with the mountain lodge and other available facilities for visitors (parking lot, toilet facilities, benches, resting areas, etc.), this site represents an excellent starting point for hiking tours of Velebit. If you take any of the hiking trails leading to the surrounding peaks that also serve as viewpoints, you will be able to enjoy amazing views of the islands of the Kvarner Bay area and the mainland region of Lika. Breathtaking vistas offered by a group of Zavižan peaks (Veliki Zavižan, 1676 m.a.s.l.; Balinovac, 1601 m.a.s.l.; (Velika) Zavižanska kosa, 1620 m.a.s.l.; Vučjak, 1644 m.a.s.l.) are bound to enchant visitors who decide to explore them.

Note:

Open during the visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November. The status depends on weather conditions and the passability of roads and trails.

In the immediate vicinity of Zavižan, some fifteen minutes of hiking away from the mountain lodge, we come across the Velebit Botanical Garden. It was established in 1967, thanks to the initiative of Fran Kušan, PhD, professor at the Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry in Zagreb. As early as in 1969, the Botanical Garden was officially recognized as a horticultural monument. The guiding idea of the Botanical Garden founders is more than relevant today as well – they wanted to make the abundance of the flora of Velebit accessible not only to scientists, researchers and Velebit enthusiasts, but also to all visitors coming to Northern Velebit. Not long after the establishment of the Garden, the surrounding area Zavižan – Balinovac – Velika kosa was declared a special botanical reserve.

The Botanical Garden is located at 1480 meters above sea level, and its central part includes a sinkhole called Balinovačka ponikva, with a rocky loop trail 600 meters long leading around it. From this site, by taking the available hiking trails, visitors can reach the surrounding peaks – Velika kosa (1622 m.a.s.l.), Balinovac (1602 m.a.s.l.) and Veliki Zavižan (1676 m.a.s.l.). Stone steps leading downwards from the loop trail once took visitors to the bottom of Balinovačka ponikva at 1430 meters above sea level, but they are barely passable today.

There are around 300 plant species growing in the Botanical Garden. Some of these species are autochthonous in the local area, and other plants were brought in from other areas of Velebit. The plants in the Garden include some fairly rare Velebit species – such as the Velebit degenia (Degenia velebitica), Croatian sibbirhaea (Sibirea altaiensis ssp. croatica), karst edelweiss (Leontopodinum alpinum ssp. krasense), Velebit dianthus (Dianthus velebiticus), Kitaibel's primrose (Primula kitabeliana), Kitaibel's columbine (Aquilegia kitaibelii) and Croatian bittercress (Cardaminopsis croatica). A large rock garden with many intriguing species is a particularly interesting part of the Botanical Garden. It takes approximately one hour of easy walking to tour the Botanical Garden, and the best time for visit is during the months of June and July, when most of the vegetation is blooming.

The Garden also includes a botanical station and resting area with benches for visitors. Plant species are marked by nameplates, and information panels emphasize the key natural values of the Garden.

Before the Northern Velebit National Park was established in 1999, the Botanical Garden had been managed by the staff of the Krasno Forestry Office. Scientific work in the Garden was conducted by the Commission for Expert Measures and Monitoring, with renowned scientists and experts as members.

Note:

Open during the visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November. The status depends on weather conditions and the passability of roads and trails.

Ideas on how to bring the mountain of Velebit closer to tourists were first discussed in articles written by Croatian mountaineers published in the magazine Hrvatski planinar (Croatian Mountaineer) back in the 1920s. The funds for the construction of the trail were eventually ensured, primarily thanks to the dedication of Ivan Krajač, PhD, Minister of Trade and Industry during the times of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. The trail was designed and built by Ante Premužić, forestry engineer, passionate mountaineer and a major Velebit enthusiast. Later on, Croatian hikers named the trail after him, thus honoring its designer.

The construction of the hiking trail began in 1930. It was jointly funded by the Forest Directorate of Sušak (the city of Rijeka), the Croatian Mountaineering Association and the Royal Administration of the Sava Banate. Due to the shortage of funds, the construction of the trail was delayed by an entire season, but the trail was eventually completed in the summer of 1933, when the most difficult section 1.5 kilometers long, leading from Čepuraš to Gromovača, was finished.

Today, the Premužić Trail is considered a genuine masterpiece of construction. Built in a dry stone wall technique, it is designed in such a manner that it allows hikers to very easily explore the most barren and rocky areas of the northern part of Velebit – the strict reserve of Hajdučki kukovi and Rožanski kukovi. Passing along the ridge of the mountain from Zavižan to Baške Oštarije in the central part of Velebit, the trail is 57 kilometers long. Since there are no hard climbs along the trail, it is also suitable for visitors unaccustomed to demanding hiking. Several trails branching from the Premužić Trail lead towards some of the most beautiful peaks in the northern and central areas of the mountain – Gromovača, Crikvena, Šatorina and others. A 16-kilometer section of the Premužić Trail passes through the Northern Velebit National Park, and the mountain shelter Rossijeva koliba is located approximately two hours of hiking away from Zavižan.

In 2009, the entire Premužić Trail was officially protected as cultural heritage of national importance. Information panels placed along the trail add to the experience of pristine beauty offered by the Park.

Note:

Open during the visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November. The status depends on weather conditions and the passability of roads and trails.

The locality of Alan with its surroundings is an area of wide mountain grasslands, karst valleys and slopes, with picturesque peaks towering above them. Veliki Alan (1414 m.a.s.l.) is one of the most important mountain passes of Velebit. The road connecting the continental region of Lika with the sea passes across it. Mountain hut Alan is located below the peak of Alančić, at the very edge of the forest, right next to the access road. Alan offers a magnificent view of the sea and the islands.

In the immediate vicinity of Alan, we come across Mirovo. It once served as a mountain settlement during summer. Today, it is merely one of the grasslands of Velebit, with visible remains of dry stone walls and old shepherds' dwellings. In the past, Mirovo was one of the larger settlements on the mountain, as seen in many remains of stone houses, barns, dry stone walls and rainwater cisterns.

A neglected cableway for the transport of logs from Velebit, leading from Alan to the cove of Stinica on the Adriatic coast, is a monument of sorts to human absurdity. The cableway was built in horrible conditions by political prisoners of the penitentiary on the island of Goli otok. Commercially unused and unfeasible, the cableway operated for only several years.

One of the facilities at Alan is also Planinska igraonica (Mountain Playroom), the interpretation and education center. The center provides information to visitors about the life of Podgorci, inhabitants of the littoral slopes of Velebit, and about typical species and habitats of particular importance for the Natura 2000 ecological network.

In addition to the "playroom" prepared for visitors, several shepherds' dwellings have also been renovated, serving for accommodation and education, and named after several typical species: Velebit leech (Croatobranchus mestrovi), beetle species Morimus funereus, and capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus).

Note:

Open during the visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November. The status depends on weather conditions and the passability of roads and trails.

In its southern area, the Northern Velebit National Park includes one part of Štirovača – a spacious valley located at approximately 1100 meters above sea level, known for its conserved coniferous forests. Štirovača is one of the few localities in the Park with a spring of drinking water and several small creeks bringing water to the surrounding wet grasslands. All hydrological and geological karst phenomena can be seen here – springs, surface watercourses and abysses.

In the past, Štirovača was an extraordinarily active place, especially during the warm summer months. It included a sawmill, a restaurant, houses where people lived with their families and tended to their livestock, workers of the forestry and the sawmill... As a result, Štirovača continues to serve as favorite excursion site of the locals, and it also represents a pleasant resting place for all the other visitors. In order for visitors to enjoy the unique atmosphere of the valley of Štirovača, the Park has restored the water spring, installed benches for rest and provided barbecuing areas where visitors can prepare a tasty meal after a day of walking and enjoying nature.

In the immediate vicinity of Štirovača, located in the Velebit Nature Park, we come across abysses where watercourses disappear, and the site of Klepina duliba – a secondary old-growth forest where the impact of man, although present at times, was not intense enough to alter the original character of the forest.

Note:

Open during the visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November. The status depends on weather conditions and the passability of roads and trails.

Veliki Lubenovac is one of the most beautiful sites in the Northern Velebit National Park. This karst valley is located on the very edge of the strict reserve of Hajdučki kukovi and Rožanski kukovi. A while back, Lubenovac was a place where people lived together with their livestock during the summer months. Today, this is the site where we come across the remains of approximately fifty shepherds' dwellings, dry stone walls and rainwater cisterns. A pond called Lubenovačka ruja also remained preserved on Lubenovac. In the past, it served as a watering place for livestock – sheep, goats, cows and horses.

Four shepherds' dwellings have been reconstructed at Lubenovac, with two dwellings serving for accommodation purposes. One of the reconstructed dwellings serves as an example and a reminder of the traditional way of life of Podgorci, the inhabitants of the littoral slopes of Velebit who used the pastures of Velebit during summer. Together with the interpretation and education center Planinska igraonica (Mountain Playroom) within the complex of shepherds' dwellings at the locality of Alan, the shepherds' dwellings at Lubenovac serve as key infrastructure for the accommodation, education and provision of information to visitors in the southern part of the National Park.

There is an educational trail along the edge of the meadow of Lubenovac leading to shepherds' dwellings. It offers visitors additional information about the nature of Northern Velebit.

Note:

Open during the visiting season, as a rule from the beginning of May until the end of November. The status depends on weather conditions and the passability of roads and trails.

Public Institution

Northern Velebit National Park

Address

Krasno 96, 53274 Krasno

Director

Irena Glavičić Sertić

Point of contact for questions

Branimir Šajatović

Phone: 00385 (0)53 665 393

Cell: 00385 (0)99 266 8605

E-mail: [email protected]

Directions

By car

There are several available access routes, depending on which part of the Park you wish to visit.

Arrival to Krasno

From the mainland, the easiest way to reach Krasno is by taking the motorway and leaving it at the Otočac exit. From that point onwards, the route to Krasno leads along a winding and mildly ascending asphalt mountain road for approximately 20 kilometers.

From the Adriatic coast, Krasno can be reached by turning onto a mountain road in Sveti Juraj, a small town located approximately 10 kilometers south of Senj. After climbing along this winding road for 12 kilometers and reaching the settlement and mountain pass of Oltari (1018 m.a.s.l.), what follows is a mild descent for approximately ten more kilometers to Krasno. If you wish to drive directly to the National Park, turn right at Oltari and follow the signposts. A drive 10 kilometers long along an asphalt road brings you to the Babić Siča Park Entrance.

Northern part of the Park – Babić Siča Entrance, Zavižan, Velebit Botanical Garden

Babić Siča (1300 m.a.s.l.), located in the northern part of the National Park, is the main entrance to the National Park for visitors who wish to explore the area of Zavižan and the Velebit Botanical Garden. Babić Siča can be reached from the direction of Oltari by taking a mildly ascending asphalt road for some 10 kilometers. An unpaved mountain road 7 kilometers long leads from Babić Siča to Zavižan.

Babić Siča can also be reached from the settlement of Krasno, by taking a gravel road 5 kilometers long leading through the hamlet of Vukelići.

Southern part of the Park – Štirovača and Alan

If you wish to visit the area of Štirovača, take a winding asphalt road leading from Krasno for 29 kilometers. If your destination is Alan, turn west in the direction of the sea three kilometers prior to the descent to the valley of Štirovača, and drive for approximately 9 kilometers along an unpaved road without steep sections to the Alan Mountain Hut.

Alan Mountain Hut can be reached from the Adriatic Highway as well, by taking an asphalt road 25 kilometers long, leading from Jablanac to the mountain hut. However, that road is quite narrow.

One available route to Štirovača leads along an asphalt forest road from the direction of Gospić via Pazarište.

Park entrances

Babić Siča

Parking available (approx. 30 spaces)

Alan

Parking available (20 to 25 spaces)

Routes described here lead only to "official" entrances. However, visitors can enter the Park at several other locations as well, by taking public roads, hiking trails or internal roads.

Parking is also available at Zavižan, with approximately 50 spaces for cars and three to four spaces for buses.

Where to buy tickets

Babić Siča

Alan

Krasno Information Center (Management of the Northern Velebit National Park), Krasno 96, Krasno

Visit the official Park website at http://www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr

National Park Northern Velebit

Story of the Park

Park ID Card - information about the Park

Natural heritage

Plant world and fungi

Animal world

Geology and Speleology

Climate

Cultural and historical heritage

History

Life

Activities

Bicycling

Senj – Oltari

Sv. Juraj – Oltari

Vratnik – Oltari

Oltari – Duliba – Krasno

Oltari – Zavižan – Lom – Lubenovac – Alan

Alan – Mrkvište – Štirovača

Hiking/walking

Premužić Trail

Zavižan – tour of the peaks of Zavižan

Zavižan – Mali Rajinac – Rossijeva koliba – Zavižan

Zavižan – Veliki Zavižan

Zavižan – Pivčevac

Alan – Buljma

Alan – Alančić

Alan – Zečjak

Alan – Veliki Golić – Goljak

Alan – Veliki Lubenovac

Oltari – Babić Siča – Zavižan

Krasno – Jezera – Zavižan

Jablanac – Alan

Babić Siča – Šarin šarinac – Ciganište – Paljež – Modrić dolac – Plančica – Vukušić duliba – Vujinac – Struge – Oštrik – Alan

Gornja Klada – Zavižan

Educational trails

Staza zviri (Wildlife Path)

Trag čovika (In the Footsteps of Man)

Vremenske ćudi Zavižana (The Temper of Zavižan Weather)

Velebit Botanical Garden

Štirovača

Put pastira (Shepherd Trail)

Premužić Trail

Park Management

Schools in nature

Little Green Workshop

Guided tours

Half-day tour

Full-day tour

Wildlife watch

Accommodation and catering

Mountain lodge - Zavižan

Mountain hut - Alan

Mountain shelter - Rossijeva koliba

Mountain hut - Apatišan

Mountain hut - Careva kuća

Mountain hut - Mrkvište

Mountain hut - Kugina kuća

Mountain hut - Oltari

Attractions

Zavižan

Velebit Botanical Garden

Premužić Trail

Alan

Štirovača

Lubenovac

Public Institution

Address

Director

Point of contact for questions

Directions

Park entrances

Where to buy tickets

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